The Accord Route

By Jo Phillips

The core ingredients that make up a perfume are often misunderstood. For example, a lemon scent will not just be made up of lemons, it will in fact have other scent facets to open and bring alive a truly full lemon freshness to the fragrance. In perfumery, the core of a perfume like this will be made up of what would be referred to as an Accord. The interesting thing about accords is that now perfumers are exploring the ideas of giving customers Accords as an almost slight form of perfume so that the wearer can decide exactly what they like ingredient-wise and also, to build their own fragrance by layering any together. There is a new profusion of customer lead versions, with the newest by The Merchant of Venice perfumery who have just launched one of the best versions of this idea to the market. Find out more Here in The Accord Route

Have you ever had the joyous experience of smelling the scent of orange blossom on a tree in spring? If you have you will know it is intoxicating. Rich heady sweetness with a touch of green clubs together in these small clusters of tiny flower bundles, dotted through the branches. The season is very short only about two weeks a year but what a delicious two weeks it is. It is exquisite ingredients like this that are now being celebrated with this a new collection of Accords that are truly sustainable and celebrate the very artistry of the perfume brand The Merchant of Venice.

This Venitian company with a deep and rich history in the art of perfumery have bought together a true celebration of ingredients at the very heart of this art form.

In perfumery, there is something called a perfume wheel, a circular diagram showing the different groups perfume comes under. This fragrance wheel is frequently used as a classification tool in perfumery.

Although the groupings are much more extensive now with add ons such as gourmands the basic four initially used would be Florals, Ambery Notes (here referred to as Oriental notes which also include vanilla, musk, spices) Fresh Green and Woods. In the very early days of perfumery, in Italy, which goes back before even Roman times, three key areas would have been commonly used. Florals, Fresh and Woods, with the Ambers coming into use much more common in the 17th century.

By exploring these four centre points of the perfumery wheel Merchant of Venice has created a collection that empowers the user to not just create their own layered fragrance but also teach about what the core of a scent really smells like, allowing each person to identify for themselves what ingredients really work for them.

On top of that and very importantly, this new project has very green and sustainable elements. Each of the Accords has been created not just with the very golden ingredients within the field, i.e the very best the world had to offer, but each is sustainably sourced with known partners who invest in the longevity of production with the best farming practice. Packing for the boxes is made from biodegradable paper obtained from algae. The raw material in the elixir and the whole container are each treated with reverence to our sacred world.

So the four key groups have been explored in twos here, to provide eight different scents to not just explore and engage with but also to layer. Both self-lead perfumery and laying are big trends now but they are not often simple for the user however this collection really hits the mark. Meet the scents here in the Arcorrdi collection

The Citrus Group

Bergamotto Itaia EDP 30 ML
The brightest and most elegant of the citrus family, bergamot is harvested in the sunshine of southern Italy from November to February. This fragrance captures all the scents and flavours of the fruit. Through a unique extraction process, Bergamotto Italia lets you discover all the fragrant juice of the pulp and fruit for an exclusive Bergamot experience. Sustainable raw materials: Bergamotto Integrale, Vert de Bergamot. The perfumer, Roxanne Kirkpatrick

This creation is like a fresh and sparkling water, tonic, dynamic, an ode to happiness and naturality!”

Arancia Brasile EDP 30 ML
The brightest and most elegant in the citrus family, Bergamot is harvested in Southern Italy’s sunshine from November to February. This fragrance captures the whole scent and flavour of the fruit. Through a unique extraction process, Bergamotto Italia brings to you all the fragrant juice of the pulp and the fruit for an exclusive experience of Bergamot. Sustainable raw materials: Orange essential oil, Bergamot Essential oil. The perfumer, Michael Carby

“This fragrance smells like summer: citruses accompanied by the addictive sweetness of Brazil oranges.

The Floral Group

Neroli Marocco edp 30ml

One of the two scents created from the Floral family. Named after an Italian princess of Nerola in the 17th century this exquisite ingredient comes from the flowers of the bitter orange tree, sweet, harvested from March to April in Northern Africa, floral with a slight green edge and very rich and potent. Sustainable raw materials: Olio essenziale di neroli, Assoluta di fiori d’arancio. The perfumer, Yann Vasnier

“I wanted a fragrance that was really majestic thanks to neroli. Neroli is marvellous, enveloping, extremely rich and powerful in anyone’s imagination, and I added a hint of mint to add a refreshing touch.”

Tuberosa India 30 ML
The other floral is hand-picked in the early morning, precious Tuberose flowers are the most intense amongst white floral notes. Intoxicating and seductive, whilst sweet and enveloping, Tuberose comes from the Tamil Nadu region of India, the harvest taking place between September and December. Its quintessential scent is captured in a rich Absolute. Sustainable raw materials: Tuberose absolute, Benzoin resinoid. The perfumer, Dalia Izem

“Tuberosa India is a fresh, sparkling and slightly fruity tuberose. Through this fragrance, I wanted to express colour, femininity and movement.”

The Amber Group

Tonka Venezula EDP, 30 ML

From April to May in the region of Caura Basin in Venezuela tonka beans fall from their tree. The small nut which is found inside is then dried and roasted. Thanks to this process an addictive, gourmand scent occurs in the form of resinoid which is then distilled to become an absolute evoking caramel, cocoa, coffee as well as other imaginary delights. Sustainable raw materials: Tonka Bean Absolute. The perfumer, Jordi Fernandez

“For this fragrance, I played tonka bean in a different way, more modern, in association with vanilla.”

Zafferano Iran 30, ML
This note encompasses a multifaceted fragrant profile ranging from woody to spicy, honey to tobacco and leather. An enchanting and mysterious accord of saffron, the red gold of spices, combines here beautifully with Cistus, a thick, golden resin from Spain. The result is this quintessential spicy blend with amber undertones.
Sustainable raw materials: Cistus absolute. The perfumer, Jordi Fernandez.

“Zafferano Iran is a joyful creation, dynamic and luminous. I wanted to create a zested freshness with a spicy and invigorating touch.”

And Finally The Wood Group

Patchouli Indonesia EDP 30 ML
A unique intertwinement of vibrant earthy and tobacco fragrant notes is contained in the leaves of the Patchouli bush native to the island of Sulawesi in Indonesia. All year long the leaves are dried after being picked and then fermented allowing their distinctively woody scent to develop. Through a distillation process, a deep essential oil is finally captured Sustainable raw materials: Patchouli essential oil. The perfumer, Marion Costero.

“Patchouli Indonesia is a woody fragrance, delicious and enveloping, with patchouli to illustrate its depth, green and resinous cedarwood, velvety and soft, and with bergamot on top to express freshness.”

Sandalo Australia EDP 30 ML
Involving the support of Aboriginal communities for its supply, the rich and smooth scent of this unique Sandalwood originates in the regions of Kalaako, Bullardoo and Yilgam of the Australian continent. All year long its woody chips are steam distilled resulting in a powerful, milky and creamy note, a legendary woody note in perfumery since antiquity. Sustainable raw materials: Essential oil sandalwood Album. The perfumer, Jordi Fernandez

“Sandalo Australia is a fragrance at the same time sweet, full of warmth and reassuring. I translated this sensation using a creamy sandalwood and tonka bean associated with the deep vibrations of the Haitian Vetiver.”

Each of these intense beautiful bottles captures the very essence of the Venetian world of perfumery, with its important location being part of the world trades routes. So there can be none a better celebration than that of these eight fragrances.

Available exclusively at H Beauty from June 2022

Find out about the whole family of The Merchant of Here

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