Vivid: Menswear Spring/Summer 2017 Collection
By Jo Phillips
For the Menswear Spring / Summer 2017 collections, there was a dominant color scheme seen across the catwalks from London to Milan, and Paris to New York. This palette consisting of bright colors, neutral tones, and a shift away from pastels toward faded mid-tones, captures the essence of a general revived emphasis on exuberant prints and patterns, statement bombers and double-breasted jackets, relaxed-fit trousers, and opulent athleisure. Check out thirty-four of the Menswear Spring / Summer 2017 collections below.
LONDON
Christopher Kane’s socially unstable youth in Scotland was a main influence in this collection of his. The “Law & Order” themed pieces and the papery rust color that accompanies them set the theme for the Scottish vibe.
CMMN SWDN’s collection was inspired by Moroccan marketplaces and the spices and people within them. The desert color scheme throughout the looks features ochres, ambers, reddish browns and blacks.
Ka Wa Key’s futuristic collection is filled with loose, metallic mesh pieces. The flow of pastel pinks and blues within the minimalistic outfits aim to emphasize the silhouettes of those who wear them.
Katie Eary’s use of fish prints and a bold color palate consisting of teal blues and coral tones set the deep sea vibe of this collection.
Liam Hodges’ mashup of patchwork spotted throughout his military-esque collection provides a sense of industrialism. The random placing of shoelaces, the frayed edges, and the noticeable seams create a sense of deconstruction.
Markus Lupfer drew inspiration from the setting of an urban jungle. The various shades of indigo, formal plaids, and khaki trousers stand in stark contrast to the leopard patterns and jungle prints.
MCM x Christopher Raeburn’s collection of smart athletic wear consisted of nylon bombers, camouflage leather jackets, and pastel colored trench coats among other sporty yet sharp pieces.
The aesthetically timeless appeal of Oliver Spencer’s collection this season creates a sense of elegance through the delicate and modest color palette.
Paul Smith’s obvious inspiration from the colorful sixties was infused into his tailored suits and formal sportswear looks. The message of peace and positivity was undeniably conveyed through the vivid, multicolored pieces throughout the collection.
The bold strips, classic leather jackets, and traditional argyle patterns featured throughout Pringle of Scotland’s collection capture the refined look of established menswear. Mixed with bleached denim and casual t-shirts, Pringle of Scotland’s aim to bring together the past and the future was accomplished.
Sibling’s translucent mesh corsets, candy colored button-downs, and 3-D sequined floral patterns across the runway set a tone of optimism and inclusion throughout the entirety of this collection.
Thomas Pink’s delicate combination of traditional menswear with modern menswear was showcased in his collection that consists of crisp shirts, sharp boxers, classic striped ties, and the occasional blazer.
Topman Design drew inspiration from British beach resorts for the overall look of their collection this season. The runway outfits were uniformly composed of pastel themed outfits with classic white loafers, beached hair, embroidered patches.
Turnbull & Asser’s collection was inspired by Monte Carlo’s Grand Prix scene in the 1970s. The tailored suits and traditional gentleman-like styles throughout the collection set a sophisticated, yet simple tone for the brand.
Xander Zhou’s emphasis on punk style in this collection is made obvious by the fringed leather jackets, camouflage pants, and eccentric trench coats made out of denim and vinyl materials that are displayed across the runway.
MILAN
This collection was primarily inspired by Picasso with an occasional hint of inspiration from Salvador Dali and Albert Einstein. Lightweight fabrics and stripes were recurring themes throughout a great majority of the runway looks.
Marcelo Burlon combined metal, army, and streetwear looks to create a multicultural collection this season. Patterned trench coats, bombers with detailed patchwork, iron pressed sweatshirts, and leather shorts are just a few of the pieces from this unique mashup of a collection.
The inspiration for Missoni’s collection this season comes from South American traditional costumes. This collection was also inspired by the military as seen in the Saharan jackets. The classic Missoni zig-zag pattern is accompanied by other intricate designs and multicolored metallic patterns throughout the collection.
Pal Zileri’s collection is influenced by Italian abstractionism combined with geometric patterns and 3-D effect prints. AS always, fine tailoring remains at the heart of the collection with a nod to the seventies in the form of double-breasted jackets and wide, high wasted trousers.
Using dark browns, greens, grays, and reds, along with casual, sporty cuts, Palm Angels provides a unique, wearable collection. From baggy pants to athletic jackets, this line exhibits a wide variety of prints and patterns.
Salvatore Ferragamo’s collection this season captures the swift and silky movement of work-wear. Using safari shades of green, blue, and beige, this line emphasizes the traditional aspects of menswear in the fashion world.
Inspired by the four days Versace spent in Chicago shooting with photographer Bruce Weber, this collection is all about energy, sportswear and attitude, worn by the Versace semi-god so close to Donatella’s heart.
PARIS
Julian Zigerli “Sorry” is what sparked the designer’s idea for this collection. It is about “not really being sorry at all” and apologizing when we don’t really mean it—just to be polite.
Fascinated by the architecture of clothing, Demna Gvasalia produced a collection based on strong shoulders and strict cuts. Going back to the very basics of tailoring, Gvasialia is inventing a new Balenciaga. His own.
ACNE Studios conveyed a romantic summer vibe in their typical Swedish manner throughout this collection with light neutral tones, woven hemp shirts, and zip-away jersey pants. Plasticized fabrics adorned with metal eyelets that reflect the look of well-used tarp and a nostalgic summer camping trip.
Embracing the modern man’s feminine side, House of the Very Islands collection this season displays a very comfortable and laid-back male. The oversized tunics and cardigans across the catwalk show a traditional fluidity of the pieces over multiple seasons.
Linen, silk, and terrycloth are all a part of Loewe’s collection this season. The undone and lightweight clothing materials, alongside a natural and organic make-up look, convey the sense of an incredibly rough and manmade collection with bohemian elements.
NEW YORK
Uri Minkoff’s collection this season portrayed a sense of timeless fashion. Drawing inspiration from the architecture and beautiful scenery of Lake Cuomo, the aim of this collection was to pause time and focus on one specific moment—a distinctive set of unique pieces are displayed throughout this seasons latest collection.
The collection from John Varvatos this season included a diverse range of aesthetically pleasing pieces. The intricate, yet simple, creative influence of this collection comes from the “Urban Romantic.” The soft while edgy effortless aspect of this collection was capture by the assorted color scheme, which included everything from “elephant grey and tomato red to antique whites and earthy suedes.”
Carlos Campos’ focus on geometric and linear designs truly displayed the innovative and edgy features throughout all of the catwalk looks. The dominant color scheme consisted of white, olive, and navy tones alongside bold and powerful graphic prints—alluding to the influence art deco had on this collection.
Tim Coppens drew inspiration from 90s athletic wear, samurai designs, and traditional Japanese dress with an abstracted Mt. Fuji design seen throughout the collection. Kimono-inspired graphics covering bomber jackets, sweatshirts made out of aluminum-coated nylon, and reflective color-blocking sweatpants make up the key pieces of this seasons’ collection.
Loris Diran’s collection this season placed an emphasis on soft and casually tailored militaristic menswear. The pastel color scheme included various tones of blue and gray, which fostered an atmosphere filled with traditional workwear for men.
Duckie Brown made a bold decision to only show a single look for this seasons collection. “In a nod to the troubled economic and political times we’re living through, the Duckie’s felt it was ‘a good moment’ to pause and not show a full collection this season.”
Palmier du Mal’s constant inspiration from global influences is what drives this collection to be unique and bold in its own way. A playful sense of workwear was displayed on the catwalk, as lax and “carelessly lavish elements” alongside luxury silk trousers appeared to be the main focus of the collection.
