Having worked, watched, flown and run across the world’s four major capitals during September’s fashion carousel, we are delighted (and exhausted) to bring you our definitive guide to next Spring / Summer’s main trends in makeup, hair and nails. We hope you enjoy digesting this as much as we did bringing it to you:
Glowing skin, fresh faced beauty but each featuring the favourite consequence of the Spring and Summer seasons; the humble freckle. Hannah Murray designed a fabulous look for Hogan at Milan’s La Piscina Solari, giving an air of the insouciance of youth. These little sun-kisses were also seen on the Preen and Chloe runways.
2. Red lips
Usually seen in the Winter months as the weather cools, come next Springtime, we can continue to rock a red lip – in a variety of tones from deep berry through to tomato red, thanks to the makeup maestros Wendy Rowe and Pat McGrath’s designs for Burberry and Dolce & Gabbana. Zac Posen and Berardi also showcased the lip as the beauty focus.
3. Floral coloured eyes
Purple in all its tones from subtle lilac through to deepest plum is a strong trend for next season, and marks the return of colour to the eye. Seen on Derek Lam, Vera Wang and Matthew Williamson to name a few, a number of the designers followed suit with a smattering of softer shades incorporated into the design such as golds and blue.
4. Out of the box makeup
Strips of leather, eyebrow rings, makeup painted as jewellery, satin strips, pastel tinted eyebrows coordinated with hair all appeared on the catwalks as evidence of rebellion against the no make-up make-up looks so frequently seen. Led by Dior’s innovative use of pastel coloured satin strips as eyeliner, Fendi stayed true to their Italian heritage and used leather inserts instead, whilst artist James Kaliardos designed the cheeky pierced eyebrow look at Rodarte which also gave a punky nod back to another trend; the seventies. Antonio Marras and Manish Arora had a delightful array of embellished sequins and spheres in pastels hues on the face.
* Dior – Tibault de St Chamas for Dior
5. Bold colour statements on lids
Last Spring we toyed with the idea of blues and reds making a comeback on our eyes, but it really took full flow this Spring season thanks to the daring bright cyan and ruby reds showcased by Tom Pecheux in Paris at Elie Saab, as well as in London and Milan with Holly Fulton, Maxmara and Ungaro to name a few.
6. Inky Black eyes
Dark and dramatic lids featured strongly too; either in a range of sexy smoky techniques seen on Tom Ford, or the smudged stains at Giles whilst some seriously sharp graphic lines similar to Bauhaus graphics were seen at Just Cavalli as well as Ann Demeulemeister, each showcasing their take on the rock star rebel.
7. Glitter, Embellishment & Metallics
Magpies are in for a real treat this season thanks to the amount of Glitter, sequins, metallic creams, pigments, pearls and anything with a shiny or reflective surface on show. Ryan Lo’s presentation featured a bevy of beautiful mermaids whilst Ashish sent a selection of gorgeous girls down the catwalk encrusted in jewels and pearls, as did House of Holland and Anna Sui.
1. Centre Partings
Immaculately straight, centre partings were the order of the day for the Prada, Balenciaga, Pucci, Alberta Ferretti and Gucci crews whilst an overall nod to the 70s era was present in the hair designs throughout a number of the brands across the fashion capitals this season.
2. Wet/Gelled back Hair
Scraped back, slicked down, pulled back, combed through. For the coming Spring you will need to become friends with gels and wet-look styling products to pull off the wet hair trend shining through at Balmain, Alexander Wang, Versace and Vaccarello.
The free-spirited, rebellious, punky nature of the Seventies era was highly evident as a general rule but none more so than at Marchesa, Matthew Williamson, Felder Felder, Marc Jacobs and Stella McCartney. Where Joan Jett and Marc Bolan style mullets, Bianca Jagger and Farrah Fawcett tousled flicks were in force. Hippy floral headpieces even featured further cementing the love in.
Evidence of texture came from Eugene Souleiman, Guido and Sam McKnight’s designs across a cheeky topknot style Mohawk, chignon, crimping and even a windswept bun. Marc by Marc Jacobs and Vivienne Westwood were particular champions of showcasing texture in their showcases.
The plait (or Braid if you’re from across the pond) really went for it this season with a selection of Pocahontas’ influenced messy pigtails, thick cornrows given a biker treatment as well as Marco de Vincenzo’s gorgeously long swishy fishtail plaits with brightly coloured wefts added in, and Armani’s plaited updo’s took some beating in the chic stakes. Bravo hair teams.
*Giorgo Armani* by Paolo Musa
Whilst plain, clear polished nails were mainly the order of the day, a quiet, graphic nail art rebellion was taking place with 3D lettering, Pearls, Chains, Glitter ombres, Graphic lines and Negative manicures all through the international capitals. Kenzo, J by JS Lee, Desigual, Misha Nonoo, House of Holland were just a few who dared their digits in the Spring revolution.