Woven; Where The Mind Meets Scent

By Jo Phillips

That Perfume, you know the one that when you wear it everyone comments. You know, that one with the magical Iso E super in it; yes Eccentric Molecules 01.  The brand that 13 years ago in 2005, started a massive change in the perfume market. There are four perfumes in the range, each of which are single molecule fragrances, i.e single celebrations of a chosen chemical. So, as it’s been ten years since they arrived in the UK of M02, here is a little round-up of all four:-

Molecule o1 is a celebration of the uber sexy miracle note Iso E Super; with its sister fragrance Eccentric 01, a homage if you like to Iso E super as well as added lime peel, hedione (green jasmine bud), orris, balsamic notes, and fresh musk. (image below)


Molecule o2 a celebration of the chemical replacement to Ambergris, Ambroxan with its sister fragrance eccentric 02 which also has added hedione (green jasmine bud), a ‘gin and tonic’ accord, “and a hint of the Austrian lemonade called almdudler” (image below)


Molecule 03 consists of  Vetiveryl Acetate, pure; the one and only with its sister/brother Eccentric 03 having added to it  Ginger, lime peel and green peppercorn, velvety orris,  jasmine and tea notes. The dry-down highlights dark green woody vetiver,  sandalwood, cedar, mellow balsams and musk. (image below)


Molecule 04 has its microscope thoroughly concentrated on Javanol which is a sandalwood-type molecule that retains the radiance and endurance of natural sandalwood, yet is sheer and transparent. It has a distinct make-up, almost split in three, with accents of Metal grapefruit and rose! So its alter ego partner Eccentric 04 is fizzy with crisp, bitter top notes of pink grapefruit peel, zest of lime. Juniper and pink pepper give an extra shot of freshness, and marijuana brings out the softer quality of the grapefruit pith. Its heart is orris with a ‘fresh soft rose’ composed of four different rose ingredients. The dry-down is balsamic and woody with Javanol in combination with the somewhat sweeter sandalwood molecule, Polysantol. (image below)


So what do you do when you are such a magical scientist of perfume and your second ‘baby’ has a tenth birthday? You bring out two limited editions for your own birthday!  So added for a limited time are  Eccentric 02 and Molecule 02 in unique anodised aluminum travel cases. Limited edition full-size bottles 100ml of each juice. Each metal case is blasted with stainless steel beads to polish the surface, while inside a soft sheath cushion. Both bottles are as above a celebration of the molecule Ambroxan.

But that isn’t quite enough for the mad scientist of fragrance. If you want to be more inspired, look at his range The beautiful Mind Series. A collection of perfumes that are almost a ‘backlash’ to mundane and average (or not very good) celebrity fragrances.  He launched a series of fragrances that he co-created with a handful of women of intelligence and creativity.

Volume 1: Intelligence & Fantasy is a collaboration with Christiane Stenger, the world’s youngest ever Memory Grandmaster. Described as a soft and ultra-feminine scent with a clarity, freshness and transparency.  It opens with luminous top notes of bergamot, magnolia bud and hedione, accented with fresh-spicy pink pepper. The heart is exotic Tiare, a gardenia native to Tahiti, rarely used in perfumery due to its prohibitive cost. The dry-down is soft, cocooning and sensual with cashmeran, sandalwood, cedar and light musks.  The packaging for Intelligence & Fantasy is a visual representation of memories being activated in the brain.

Volume 2: Precision & Grace is a collaboration with Polina Semionova, the world-renowned classical ballet dancer, and therefore is all about lightness; the gossamer layers of the classical ballerina’s costume and then the warmth of her body as she dances.  It starts at the top with crisp, juicy and green, notes including Williams pear, bergamot, mandarin and lemon. The heart is a fruity-floral accord of plum with jasmine, and airy florals mimosa, freesia and osmanthus together with fresh and spicy pink pepper. The base is warm and sensual with amber, sandalwood and castoreum. The packaging for Precision & Grace is an impression of the swirling neural pathways that light up in the brain of a dancer. The pulses of colour reflect the flux of the dance, almost like motion captures trails.

Geza Schoen is currently working on fragrance no.3 in the series.

However in order to unfold much of this feeling about this collection and also in celebration of these types of women why not read about them (in their own words)  in the blog on the beautiful mind website. Posts include Lucy Boynton, who will play Freddie Mercury’s love interest in the upcoming biopic, Bohemian Rhapsody. Liv Little, the co-founder and editor of gal-dem. Penny Martin, editor of The Gentlewoman, Sandy Powell, Academy Award-winning costume designer and Saira Hunjan, a tattoo artist.

Future blogs will feature, Zowie Broach, Head of Fashion at The Royal College of Art, Dr Leyla Hussein, psychotherapist and self-defined ‘accidental campaigner’ plus German novelist, Johanna Adorjan.

All the subjects are all photographed by Susannah Baker-Smith.    The perfumes really do hint to where niche fragrances are going, more personalised more intimate and far more intelligent, bring it on Geza!


Eccentric Molecules can be found here

Beautiful Mind Series can be found here

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