The Twenty SS20 Issue

It’s all about Layers

By Rebecca McNelly-Tilford

Surface – noun : the outside part or uppermost layer of something. – a continuous set of points that has length and breadth but no thickness.

adjective: relating to or found on the surface of something.

verb: rise or come up to the surface of the water or the ground. – provide (something, especially a road) with a particular surface.

For May our monthly theme is Surface inspired by the earth surface layers. With a particular focus on designers who have used layering with their spring-summer 2020 collections.

Lanvin – The SS20 collection for Lanvin took inspiration from a 1905 comic strip. A huge variety of primary and pastel colours were used within the collection. As well as lots of print, one, in particular, reflects the collections inspiration via illustrated comic motifs.

Larger and unusual silhouettes are created via layering. This can be seen within the styling pairing oversized outwear over flared trousers. Dresses are oversized, every design element is loose but with purposeful silhouettes, all coming together to showcase a chic yet loose way to layer.

Molly Goddard – The queen of layering tulle resulting in the most extravagant garments, has introduced a more ‘everyday wearable’ approach to the silhouettes and style of her garments for this season.

Layering garments help create volume and shape. Peplum shirts are layered over tulle skirts. Skirts and tops can also be seen under tulle sheer layers. Adding depth creating texture and bringing detailed design to this whimsical collection.

Roksanda – The spring-summer 2020 collection from Roksanda draws inspiration from the works of Mary Weatherford – this is translated into the collection via the colour palette featuring clashing colours.

The contrasting colours, like red and yellow, highlight the layering use within the collection, while monochromatic pieces draw attention to the design and cuts of the garments to showcase layering via a design approach. The modern cuts and timeless style result in a breathtaking well-thought-out and forward-thinking collection from Roksanda.

“The concept of building colour and creating a three-dimensional form is developed further through the reinterpretation of art posters that have been layered over time, slowly peeling to reveal what was there before, influencing ideas for print techniques, with double exposed imagery being exploded to a vast scale and subsequently printed and sprayed with colour. Embodying the effect of a canvas that is still work in progress, these layered prints go through an additional process of being sprayed, painted and then pleated on long drop-waist dresses and skirts layered with tailoring” says the brand.

Michael Kors Collection – The brand has opted for a collection similar to Lanvin’s layering approach this time of the year by layering technical textures and prints upon garments.

Multiple detailed elements from clashing graphics to multi-layered garments have been used to including even the smallest styling accessories details like belts and scarfs for additional layering features to create a clean contemporary take on the spring-summer 20 seasons for Michael Kors Collection.

Issey Miyake – The Japanese brand’s spring-summer 20 collection is a medley of amazing details designs.

The use of layering is subtle. Some looks portray traditional layering, from jackets over shirts, to mesh/fringe dresses layered over bralettes and trousers.

Layers can be seen in a more subtle direction, multiple hats on top on another to completely reconstruct the silhouette of a hat and waterfall cuts to jackets to create ruffled layers. A creative collection filled with clever design and construction.

Fendi – Titled ‘Solar Flare’, the collection is “a kaleidoscope of texture and tone remixes FENDI tradition with a streak of summer rebellion”.

Layering is both bold and subtle within this spring-summer 20 collection. From contrasting prints created via sheer sequins layered over garments to woven knits that create a unique approach to the trend and the use of sheer materials without. These ways to layer are bold, but more subtle directions can be seen translated into the accessories like socks that are suspended from tulle experimenting with transparency and layers.

Whistles in collaboration with L.F.Markey– This collaborative collection for the spring-summer 2020 season is inspired by utilitarian and workwear, in a colour palette of blush pinks, ivory and denim. Showcasing simple layering details from boiler suits and spring jackets. This limited edition highlights how timeless and classic the layering trend is and will be launched on May 29th.

Topshop – This trend is not just for the catwalk, but can also be seen within the high streets. Layering can be simple with layering lightweight jackets perfect for the spring. Under or over layering with a classic black dress with sheer mesh sleeves.

A modern take on layering is using underwear and outerwear by pairing a classic white cropped T over a bralette and for a more graphic approach a printed mesh T an effortless way to create layers, without adding to much heat -adding depth to outfits for the spring-summer 2020 season.

Read more on the Spring-Summer 2020 season with our online issue Twenty For SS20.