The Twenty SS20 Issue

London 2 SS20

By Jo Phillips

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Image on right-hand side, Ashley Williams

Molly Goddard

This season marks Goddard’s first use of leather and denim in her collections. Displaying her signature use of tulle, this season, round and full tulle midi skirts and leather knee-high boots were shown in an abundance of colours from creams, yellows, pinks, lime greens, electric blues, and blacks.    

Ashley Williams

After taking a brief break from fashion week for health issues, Williams is back with a collection full of her dog, Didi printed on corsets and small handbags. The collection mixes zebra prints with polka dots and neon pinks and greens with prints of infamous renaissance paintings on slim fitted dresses, tight pants, and short skirts. 

Jamie Wei Huang

The collection was named Obsessive O.C.D, a condition from which Huang suffers. Tight silhouettes and higher waisted tops and dresses contrasted the loose and oversides sleeves of the pieces. Styled with small furry crossbody bags in tan, green, and red, the collection also included aqua and pastel pink slip dresses and shiny slightly oversized sheer tops. 

Simon Mo

The focus of this collection was to bring awareness to light pollution. With long checkered loose dresses and a lot of colour blocking, Mo paired it with star patterns to resemble laying out in the night sky. One signature piece many models wore were the pink or green glasses that lit up. 

16 Arlington

The collection uses a lot of feathers, leather, and liquid metallic fabrics. Fitted silhouettes contrasted the bubble-like forms of some liquid gold dresses, feathery pink and red halter-top dresses.  Colours ranged from reds mixed with pinks, solid whites, liquid golds silvers and reds, to pastel blues and black. 

Bora Aksu

The collection includes ruffled tulle dresses mixed with structured blazers in whites and navy blues and pops of lilac, pinks, reds, and yellows. The flowing loose and ultra-feminine silhouette of the tulle dresses are paired with lace stockings and short boots while the tailored blazers are paired with straight trousers and fitted tops for an overall more fitted look.  

Chalayan

Full of neutral tones, blues and white small floral prints, black and beige gingham prints mixed with beige or black solid colours, the collection varied in structure and fitted silhouettes. The tailored suits were prevalent and contrasted the flow and movement of the dresses.  

Erdem

This season’s collection was filled with pattern and colour mixing. Reds, pinks, and yellows were the main standouts among the loose ruffled eyelet cut dresses and tailored oversized pantsuits. The silhouette of the dresses, especially, didn’t have cinched waists but rather no waist at all. 

Gayeon Lee

The collection includes a lot of colourful sashes in pastel yellows and pinks loosely attached on top of dresses and tops. The dangling fabrics of the pieces gave them an a-symmetrical feel. The straight and boxy silhouette of the dresses and pants-with-tops are all styled with low strappy mule heels. 

Malan Breton

The flowy floor-length gowns and structured suits offer a significant distinction between the few short tight leather dresses featured in the collection. The colours of the dresses and suits are mainly within the browns, blacks, and golds with pops of orange, light blue, and light pink. 

Toga

Inspired by making the collection more indulgent by being more unnecessary, this collection has lots of embellishment, jewelry, 3D florals, and fishnet. The form-fitted tailoring of the pieces came in beige, black, and white while the extra embellishment of the outfits offered pops of blue and yellow to the neutrally based pallet. 

Burberry

With extensive tailoring and a neutral palette, the line marked one year since Riccardo Tisci became the creative director of Burberry. The power suit made a big statement through the layers of neutral colors and loose tassels dangling over the slightly oversized silhouette. The slim dresses contrasted the oversized feel of the collection with fitted silhouettes and mesh or feather adornments.   

London 3 p8