Face the Facts, Great Skin Can Be Uncomplicated

Many of us have created a mini chemist in our bathrooms because of the number of products and steps we take both morning and evening whilst completing our skincare regime. When did we stop doing a three-step routine of cleanse, tone and moisture? And move to a 20-step regime? Does skincare really need to be this complicated? No is the answer, find out more in, Face the Facts, Great Skin Can Be Uncomplicated.

All Images Samantha Inman @rememberingtobreathe

Did it ever occur to you that the amount of product you put on your delicate face morning, noon and night may be doing more harm than good? You started out trying to deal with the odd spot or oily T-zone and before you know it you have a host of other problems. Although products with say, Hyaluronic acid, or Vitamin C amongst others, have very small amounts of active ingredients they still are active. And when you think about 20 steps of different active ingredients then you may well be overloading your skin.

On left-hand side, Augustinus Bader The Rich Cream, A luxury moisturizer clinically proven to help reduce the signs of ageing including the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation. It deeply hydrates, conditions, and renews for soft, even, restored skin. Helps to maintain elasticity, supports skin barrier function, and prevents transepidermal water loss, for skin that’s supple, plump, and smooth. It Protects against environmental aggressors. TFC8® supports cellular renewal and guides key ingredients to the cells. TFC8® technology guides key nutrients and powerful natural ingredients to the skin, creating and supporting an optimal environment for cellular renewal. TFC8® turns potent base formulations into smarter, adaptive skincare capable of addressing individualized concerns – such as the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, redness, hyperpigmentation, cellulite, stretch marks, and damage caused by external stressors. TFC8® nourishes and protects, training the skin for the long-term. Resulting skin looks and feels healthier, firmer, stronger, and more even over time. Peptides & Antioxidants Advanced Firming Daily Treatment, Allies of Skin contains an award-winning daily moisturiser, supercharged with 13 Brighteners, 9 Antioxidants, 7 Firming Peptides, a 5% Teprenone & Ferulic Complex and a 3% Biotech Algae Complex to hydrate, firm, refine, provide antioxidant protection, and brighten skin as well as revive lost firmness to your complexion. Dermatologically tested, ** Clinically proven results for all skin types, including sensitive skin. **Result based on an apparent age evaluation performed by an expert, using the mean value of 34 participants after twice a day use for 28 days. *Result based on an apparent age evaluation performed by an expert, using the mean value of 34 participants after

Because, and this is probably the most important message about skincare you will ever get, our skin has a natural PH balance of our faces and body lies between 4.7 and 5.75 but it can be disrupted due to environmental factors/pollution, sleep, hydration, and, of course, by the products used. 

This level is considered pH balanced and usually means the skin is healthy, hydrated, and thriving and when our skin is at its optimal level, barrier function, and moisture retention on the skin is at its optimum.

Hydrabio Crème, by Bioderma with the patented biological complex Aquagenium™, generates intense hydration, immediately and lastingly. It retrains the skin to activate its natural moisturising capacities by stimulating the production of aquaporins, water channels in the skin, and retain the water it needs to be balanced. Thanks to an emulsion inspired by the structure of the epidermis, the active ingredients of the Aquagénium™ patent penetrate deeply and in a more targeted manner. The skin thus regains its natural hydration capacities, The rich and creamy texture of Hydrabio Crème intensely nourishes the skin. By eliminating dead cells, and progressively reducing the skin’s upper layer, salicylic acid equalises and smoothes the skin’s surface, which lastingly gains radiance. Finally, Vitamin E helps to protect the skin against oxidative stress and combat premature cutaneous ageing. Boots Vitamin C Brightening Moisturising Cream 50ml Boots Vitamin C moisturising cream promises to give you brighter-looking skin in 14 days. This light texture Vitamin C moisturiser nourishes for radiant-looking skin. With added Vitamin C and YUZU extract this moisturising cream is suitable for all skin types.

Minimising the use of potentially irritating or drying products, your skin may have balanced its natural oils, leading to improved hydration levels and a softer skin texture, without heavy-handed interference.

Therefore taking care of the products we use is imperative, but on top of that allowing skin sufficient time and space to receive products and recover from their impact can lead to healthier skin. Stop overloading your skin and let it settle to its natural state and then once you have rested it look to see if you can cut it down from 20 steps to maybe a healthy four or even five; a cleanser, toner, serum and/or a face cream/ SPF? If you suffer from very specific problems and are using lotions and potions subscribed by a doctor then it’s a different scenario of course.

Facial Souffle Ultra Rich Cream by Elemental Herbology The hydrating mask plumps and firms sensitive skin while replacing lost moisture. Fine lines and wrinkles appear visibly reduced and skin feels nourished and healthy. Can be used as a day or night moisturiser, or as an overnight mask.  It contains Rose Damask to tone, hydrate and soothe sensitivity whilst protecting the skin’s natural moisture barrier as well as Argan Oil: which is rich in essential fatty acids and vitamin E to promote elasticity, hydration and repair. And finally Aquarich® A 24-hour moisturising complex that locks moisture into the skin and visibly improves hydration. Also from Elemental Herbology is the award-winning Cell Active Moisturiser 2023 Winner – Best Moisturiser (Age 40+). Natural botanicals and active ingredients work together to noticeably reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, helping to strengthen skin cell structure while plumping and firming the skin to reveal a radiant complexion. Contains Hyaluronic Acid to maintain skin hydration and prevent moisture loss, while reducing fine lines for a plump, smooth complexion.  Liftonin® A botanical complex sourced from oak apple and millet to firm and strengthen the skin. And  
Lanablue® A hydrating blue-green algae proven to reduce wrinkle depth and deeply hydrate skin. Urjasara Essential Nurture Moisturiser Watery Cream by Kama Ayurveda . Alumping and hydrating moisturiser is an authentic Ayurvedic hydration recipe and is supercharged with hyaluronic acid for youthful-looking, more resilient skin. This plumping, hydrating cream helps skin fight premature ageing and delivers a healthy glow. Works for Brightening, Firming and Anti-Ageing For all Skin Types but is best for oily Skin Dosha TypeTri-Dosha. Best for Pitta or Pitta-Kapha

Ultimately a streamlined routine promotes better skin long term. So think about what steps you really want to do daily, the most important outside of a good cleanse, is of course moisturise.

Thankfully the world of skincare via science has opened up the knowledge of how the skin works and so products have got better.

Originally a moisturiser was there to act more than anything like a barrier, stop letting water out and stop nasties coming in. Think heavy and often leave skin greasy, but thankfully now they not only do so much more and work much harder, coming with lots of added extras like Hyaluronic acid, Vitamin C, Antioxidants, Retinols etc so a great moisturizer will save you precious time and money with multiple uses built into one.

Superfood Air-whip Moisture Cream by Youth To The People. This lightweight face cream floods skin with vital hydrating ingredients for long-lasting moisture that’s never heavy or greasy. Superfood and vitamin-rich, it cools and comforts skin, leaving a healthy, natural glow. Suitable for acne-prone skin, won’t clog pores, and layers well with makeup. A lightweight gel moisturizer that visibly plumps, provides up to 48 hours of hydration, and helps strengthen the moisture barrier in one hour. Suitable for  Normal, Combination, and Oily skin, and works on Fine Lines and Wrinkles, Dryness, and Loss of Firmness and Elasticity. Ingredients include Kale that is rich in phytonutrients and vitamins C and E to leave skin visibly glowing, Spinach, Green Tea an antioxidant-rich powerhouse that fights visible signs of ageing, Alfalfa, Vitamins C and E. Finally Hyaluronic Acid a natural hydrator known for its moisture-retaining properties. Collagen Re-Inforce 3D Advanced Face Lift Day Cream by Elizabeth Grant A hydrating day cream formulated with five different types of collagen and Torricelumn™ to help fortify the skin and visibly improve the appearance of skin firmness and facial contours. Formulated with a synergic combination of advanced actives, phyto-collagen, marine collagen, bio-advanced peptides, and Torricelumn™, this day cream helps to reduce the visible signs of ageing. It helps to fortify and rebuild skin, promoting the appearance of healthier, firmer and more hydrated skin. A light-weight and fast-absorbing formula for optimal efficacy and results. Kiehls Ultra Facial Cream. A unique lightweight texture and up to 24-hour lasting hydration, leaving skin softer, smoother and visibly healthier. Formulated with Glacial Glycoprotein and olive-derived Squalane, this non-greasy, lightweight moisturiser recovers the skin barrier function and immediately leaves skin more hydrated. Squalane is a highly-refined botanical lipid derived from sugar cane. With an exceptional affinity to skin, Squalane absorbs easily and is known to help replenish skin’s barrier keeping it soft, supple and moisturised. In our formulations, Squalane is renewable and responsibly sourced. Originally sourced from Antarctic Sea glaciers, Glacial Glycoprotein helps to deeply hydrate and maintain skin’s moisture balance.

Face moisturizers are mainly oil-based. They may contain mineral oil or seed oils. These oils work by delivering long-lasting moisture to the skin. At the same time, they help to seal the skin barrier, which locks in the moisturizing ingredients and prevents water from evaporating.

Now for the science bit. Emollients are mostly made up of lipids and their components, which fill intercorneocyte (outermost layer of the epidermis) cluster gaps to enhance skin hydration, smoothness, softness, and flexibility.

B Triple C Facial Balancing Gel by Aesop. A lightly hydrating formulation that delivers generous measures of Vitamins B and C to balance skin. Replenishes and softens skin, and evens its appearance. Suitable for combination, oily and patchy skin, in warm and humid climates. Contains Panthenol (Provitamin B₅), Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (Vitamin C), Sodium Lactate. Firming Cream by Bamford. A nourishing Firming Cream that is designed to combat signs of ageing while brightening the skin. The intensely hydrating formula is enriched with plant actives, working to replenish the skin’s moisture levels. Packed with vitamin E, antioxidants, and essential fatty acids, coffee oil helps temporarily tighten blood vessels, reducing puffiness and promoting firmer-looking skin, while the witch hazel works protects against UV damage and discolouration. Made in Italy with 99% natural ingredients, 28% organic ingredients. Suzanne Kaufmann Nourishing Day Cream A powerful daily face cream created to smooth away the appearance of lines and wrinkles and replenish lost moisture, leaving skin feeling beautifully soft. Ideal for dry and sensitive skin. Enriched with a unique botanical blend featuring hyaluronic acid, Schisandra fruit extract, jojoba oil and Alpine rose extract, the Nourishing Day Cream helps to protect and relieve dry skin, leaving it looking visibly rejuvenated. Moisturising rosehip seed oil, rich in nutrients and vitamins, improves elasticity to leave skin looking smoother and firmer. Antioxidant sunflower oil and tomato fruit extract protect skin from premature ageing. The day cream provides ideal care for sensitive skin. Nutrient Cream Light with Super Seeds and Phytoceramides by Votary is a super-charged, lightweight Cream. The Nutrient Cream Light feeds it with the most gorgeous veil of lightweight hydration for Spring/Summer. Suited to dry, sensitive and dehydrated skin, it is an active-packed daily moisturiser inspired by Super Seed Nutrient Cream. Fragrance free, it is bespoked with 21 Super Seed Oil blend that nourishes and soothes. Plant oleosomes and hyaluronic acid deliver intense, long-lasting hydration for thirsty skin. Phytoceramides help protect the skin’s delicate barrier to keep it hydrated and supple. Collamung acts as a powerful antioxidant helping fight UV stress while nourishing skin, and strengthening the epidermal barrier.

Occlusives are another type of moisturizer which is mostly oil-based and serve the function of maintaining skin water content by creating a hydrophobic ( water-repellent) barrier over the skin and blocking trans-epidermal water loss.

The last type of moisturizers are humectants, which consist of hygroscopic (retaining moisture) substances which help the stratum corneum (skin’s outer layer) to absorb water by attracting water from the dermis and a humid environment into the epidermis.

Water Bank Blue Hyaluronic Cream Moisturizer TBC by Laneige A perfect cream for Dry and dull skin that lost its elasticity and vitality due to dryness. For a strong barrier and healthy glow. Skin Barrier for a dense and sturdy skin barrier with lasting moisture. Ceramide /
Cholesterol / Fatty acids help to make a densely structured skin barrier with ingredients similar to skin lipids. Pepta-panthenol Complex helps to fortify skin barrier and Blue Hyaluronic Acid has a powerful hydration and repair effect Calecim Professional Multi-Action cream This product harnesses powerful PTT-6® into a daily skin treatment, that boosts collagen and elastin production, effectively lifting and firming skin. Repairs and restores all layers of skin for a healthy, supple, and radiant complexion. PTT-6^® harnesses the body’s natural mechanisms of regeneration. It contains over 3,000 proteins, including growth factors, cytokines and exosomes that signal cells to regenerate.

The simplest of face moisturizers prevents and hydrates skin, but that’s not all they can do. They can improve the skin barrier and help with sunscreen if they contain SPF’s. Moisturizers with antiaging ingredients can also soothe sensitive skin and improve skin tone and texture, smooth wrinkles all the while helping skin to look firmer and healthier. 

The main uses for any moisturiser are to prevent dryness, slow the signs of ageing, soothe sensitive skin, protect from the sun if they contain SPF and even help with oil control to help fight acne.

Lotus & Lychee Facial Creme by Anokha is a light moisturizer which combines extracts of lotus flower, lychee fruit, plum, elderberry, and ylang-ylang for skin that’s as soft and supple as it is bright and bouncy. The lotus flower extract is layered with vitamin C to protect the skin from free radicals and potassium to hydrate. Lychee fruit extracts are rich in natural vitamin C and potent antioxidant properties, they help rejuvenate skin and brighten tone. Gotu kola extract uses active compounds to stimulate collagen production. its anti-inflammatory properties help prevent scars and soothe irritation. Finally, elderberry extract is packed with antioxidants, and antimicrobial, antifungal, and anti-inflammatory properties to boost immunity, help tighten skin, and provide anti-wrinkle benefits. If you really are a serum person then KateCeuticals SuperCell Rejuvenation Serum by Kate Somerville may well suit. A clinical-grade skin rejuvenation serum that is a powerhouse of vegan stem cells and active peptides that accelerate cellular turnover, delivering fresh-from-the-clinic results in the comfort of your home. Boost collagen, visibly repair even the most severe wrinkles, fine lines, and damage from the sun, pollution, and medical esthetic treatments and finally new to the UK is Element Eight. O₂ Growth Factor Eight Active Cream , is a multitasking moisturizer suitable for all skin types that reduces wrinkles, builds collagen, firmness and elasticity, intensely hydrates, improves skin barrier protection, provides antioxidant protection and calms and soothes irritated skin. A biomimicking innovation formulated with OATH™: Oxygen Amplified Therapy, the topical haemoglobin that delivers liquid oxygen directly to skin cells and our Penta Growth Factor Complex that optimizes the key physiological processes of the skin cell cycle and collagen and elastin synthesis.

Some moisturizer components have extra properties like a soothing effect on inflamed skin, providing a cooling sensation and therefore reducing itching, and contain mineral oils that possess low-grade epidermal antimitotic properties bring therapeutic benefits and promote wound healing acceleration.

One more area to discuss is the use, in many simple high street style skin creams, of petroleum. This ingredient is derived from crude oil, which is a non-renewable resource so not a green option. Petroleum-based ingredients are often used in skincare products because they are cheap and easy to obtain. However, they can be very drying to the skin and can cause irritation, redness, and acne.

Many newer more high-end products promote themselves as “petrolatum free”? So is petrolatum safe? Should we only be buying products that are petrolatum-free? Names to look out for on the packaging include mineral oil, and paraffin petrolatum, also keep an eye out for Petrolatum, and white petrolatum.

There’s petrolatum in one out of every 14 cosmetic products on the market, including 15 % of lipsticks and 40 % of baby lotions and oils. Plus, it’s used as an active ingredi­ent for healing cuts and burns, and still many skin doctors recommend it. But it is very heavy and therefore it really can be very drying when there’s not a regular exchange of air and outside moisture with the skin. For anyone prone to spots it’s way too greasy a product and some products can be moderately hazardous most are safe but a few are considered high-hazard. Many countries are still investigating the environmental impact of petrolatum in cosmetics.

Alternatives to petrolatum in cosmetics are more expensive and trickier to formulate but are better and safer for us and our planet.

Finding the right daily face moisturizer for your skin type alongside knowing when and how to use it is key as there is something out there for everyone. But remember don’t forget your Neck, Décolleté, Hands, knees elbows and Feet even your Ears. Ultimately it is up to each and every one of us to find a face cream that fits.

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