London Fashion Week; The Trends for Spring Summer Day Five

By Jo Phillips

It’s that time of year with all the international designers presenting their collections. This season for Spring Summer ’24 as ever, London had a crowded schedule so here are a few highlights, Find out more here in London Fashion Week; The Trends for Spring Summer Day Five.


Synonymous with glamour, maximalist design, and hand embroidery, fashion designer Ashish Gupta approaches his work with a rainbow palette and a glittering sensibility.

Photos: Chris Yates

Banshee of Savile Row

“Stripped Back” A fashon film celebrating the wild and free Banshee women.

Edeline Lee

“Future Lady”


“I Wish I Were Here”

Photos: Jason Lloyd-Evans


Along with its mainline of eye-catching damaged sportswear that contain merged logos and one-of-a-kind streetwear couture designs, NOKI strives to represent the voices of tomorrow by upcycling clothing that is hand-selected from vintage landfills.

Photos: Chris Yates

Chet Lo

“haam4 sap1 salty: pornographic: dirty”

Photos: Chris Yates



By Cookie H

At London Fashion Week, By Cookie H.’s “Living Dolls” collection includes childlike curiosity and originality, drawing inspiration from the designer’s 7-year-old daughter, Courtney.

Photos: Chris Yates Media


r.l.e addresses the struggle between individualism and cultural prejudices in the SS24 collection named “Murmur,” praising people who express their true worth in today’s difficult environment.


JU-NNA mixes traditional Japanese Shibori with modern design. The brand uses Shibori designs to print fabrics in collaboration with Asian craftspeople. The inspiration for this season comes from art and nature, merging the London fashion industry with Japanese design.

Photos: Chris Yates Media

University of Westminster

Dai Yueyang

Dai’s ‘Full Metal Dandy’ fashion collection blends Norwegian black metal aesthetics with Dandy menswear, featuring nails both symbolically and as construction elements for a visually striking and texturally rich outcome.

Gyuwon Baek

Dai’s ‘Full Metal Dandy’ fashion collection blends Norwegian black metal aesthetics with Dandy menswear, featuring nails both symbolically and as construction elements for a visually striking and texturally rich outcome.

Yuchen Yuan

Yuchen Yuan’s collection is inspired by the 1960s Italian film “Danger: Diabolik,” and it mixes traditional menswear with a touch of intrigue and surrealism. Her design concept is reflected in the silhouettes, which emphasise a hypermasculine form with exaggerated shoulders and chests.

Zackary Mahomo

A wild and dynamic masculinity is being created by a denim revival, obsessively collecting used clothing, and utilising its provocative designs by disassembling and reassembling them into new ones.

Haiyang Yu

With gender-neutral clothing inspired by Talking Heads’ 1970s performances, Haiyang’s fashion emphasises freedom, variety, and togetherness. Key characteristics include oversized shoulders, asymmetry, and distinct patterns.

Nym Promprasert

Nym Promprasert’s “Unveiling Identity” flawlessly blends men’s and women’s design, merging couture elegance with late 1990s rock aesthetics.

Designs: Randy Wong


The 1920s and Cecil Beaton’s “bright young thing” photographs inspired Lele’s “Tchotchkes” collection. It defies convention by combining tailored suits with sequin gowns and ruffled blouses, evoking the era’s dualism.

Jiwon Jang

Jiwon Jang’s collection combines her Korean heritage with her experience in a Japanese middle school. She explores the meaning of uniforms in a fun manner, attempting to break free from conservatism and societal expectations with an androgynous twist.

Anyi Tang

Anyi Tang’s “The Poor in Spirit” is inspired by her childhood in Northeast China and the perseverance of marginalised groups chronicled by Yang Yankang in the 1990s.

Ben Lord

Ben Lord’s “Future Noir” is inspired by 1980s punk culture and “Blade Runner,” and depicts a grim futuristic town. Hand-painted black latex trench coats, wide-leg pants, and slim-fitting vests from his collection combine a punk style with a contemporary touch.

Xinyi Liu

Xinyi Liu’s “Century Youth” dives into her nostalgia addiction, immersing herself in recollections of times she hasn’t lived through. Her design language incorporates difficult fabric combinations and colour matching.


Yoshie’s “Biker” collection is inspired by Bushido rules, Japanese motorbike gangs known as Bosozoku, and Samurai culture. She creates a new, stylish yet robust line by folding classic motorcycle jackets.

Xiaona Sun

“RE-Rebel” was inspired by Karlheinz Weinberger’s rebel youth photography from the 1960s in Switzerland. Xiaona reimagines current clothing worn by working-class youths who have combined American pop culture with their own distinct style.


The Enchanting Dreamscape collection enhances the Butonscarves brand’s signature monogram designs through innovative fabric techniques.

Puspita Khannan

Nada Puspita and Khanaan collaborate on the ‘Take A Bow’ collection for London Fashion Week Spring/Summer 24. It combines Puspita’s watercolour blossoms and Khanaan’s pixelated ikat patterns in a pleasing way.


Ayu Dyah Andari makes ultra-feminine clothing embellished with crystals, pearls, and embroidered flowers, inspired by Victorian motifs and old elegance. The “Rose and Beyond” collection has 11 looks in deep earth tones, five of which were created in partnership with entrepreneur Putri Zulkifli Hasan.


The Lustrous Whispers series is inspired by Chinoiserie designs, combining traditional beauty with contemporary twists.


Istafiana Candarini, Nadya Karina, and Afina Candarini launched the Indonesian label Kami. in 2009, and it is noted for comfortable women’s modest apparel. The 14-year voyage inspired the Ovra Collection, which has a rain lily blossom design that represents optimism and wealth.


Ivan Gunawan’s “Babushka” line pays homage to elegant women, notably his Grandma from his Moscow youth.

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