Art School’s SS20 collection saw the continuation of gender-blending and genderless dressing, with tube dresses and grey leopard prints paired with stiletto heels for both the male and female models. Layered fabrics and contrasting patterns from the designers graced the runway, the majority of the designs were black, accompanied with leather or fringe with the occasional all-silver dress too. The designs spoke for themselves so the hair styling and makeup was simplistic and white contacts lenses were used on the models to emulate other-worldly beings.
Bethany Williams’ SS20 The Butterfly Cafe collection was inspired by the designer’s collaboration with South London homelessness charity, Spires. In the collection, greys and purples features and dark blue is paired with yellow and orange embroidery . Detailed patterns, chunky knits and repurposed denim featured in her runway looks that illustrated her ability to incorporate her handmade ethos into her work. Waterproof was reimagined in a variety of different forms – showing both the innovation and practicality of Bethany’s designs.
Charles Jeffrey Loverboy collection is an ode to societal changes stemming from the 70s punk era and popular culture in the 1980s, which is evident with from the leather jackets and gingham throughout the designs. Silhouettes have been reimagined with cut out details and the intermeshing of different patterns and textures. Black, blue, red and white were among the colours featured in the looks, as was the running theme of fishnet tights and chunky footwear.
Craig Green’s designs were a fresh take on utility wear and incorporated his different disciplines, from ornamental plastic details to quilted co-ords to floor-length gingham caftans. Leather coats, overalls and tailored trousers with exposed pockets were central to the theme of Craig Green’s runway that dealt with both the physicality of bodies and the complexities of the human mind. The male form was a focal point of the show, some pieces featured the outline of the male body that added dimension. For Craig Green’s SS20 collection, the runway was mirrored to create the illusion of the models walking across a bottomless chamber.
E Tautz’s SS20 collection was described as being “juicy and fruity and floral” in the show notes and the pieces did not disappoint. Patrick Grant’s designs had a rich palette of cherry reds, dusky rose and varying shades of orange, from clay to tangerine. Monochrome and patterned shorts were oversized, even when high on the thigh and the trousers were classic wide leg that saw the integration of 40s-meets-80s tailoring.
Purples and patterns were heavily featured in Edward Crutchely’s SS20 collection, which was showcased in Haberdasher’s Hall. Late 1970s and early 1980s influences the designs seen on the runway with silhouettes looking more refined. Hues of dirty blush, burgundy and aubergine ran through the looks, with a lilac three-piece suit and floral printed blouses.
The Italian knit-turned-sportswear brand, Iceberg incorporates contrasting prints, patchworked denim and bold colours in its SS20 collection. The designs paid homage to Mickey Mouse and Looney Tubes by featuring its iconography in co-ords and jumpers. Primary colours ruled on this runway, with denim also making its mark. The pieces were accompanied with fishnet socks, statement bags, satin neckties and belt chains.
Chinese-born, London-based designer, Feng Chen Wang and her SS20 collection has taken inspiration from Chinese fabrics that her grandmother wore, her latest pieces include handmade, sun-dried materials and dye colours sourced from local plants. Combining relaxed fits and structured tailoring, her designs are filled with beiges, powder blues and the occasional splash of neon orange and yellow. Taking a centuries-old technique, a bamboo woven structure was created and ties the collection together perfectly. Paired with the outfits were tight belts and trainers by Converse, who were partnered with Wang.
Cyberpunk meets primitive futurism in Liam Hodges’ SS20 collection, in collaboration with artist Alfie Kungu. The pair produced hand-painted pieces and graphic knitwear, that used all the colours of the rainbow to create a collection with a sense of synergy. The designs were classic and fused traditional with the unconventional. The styling was Sims-like, with wigs used and models’ faces distorted using wires and tape – a comment on the blurred lines between online and real-life personas.
The mixture of futuristic rave-style and structured fits in Jordan Lucas’s SS20 collection combines fine Italian tailoring with the dynamism of London’s street style. Among the designs were neon rat patterned body shirts that were paired with tailored trousers and deconstructed and reworked suits with zip details. Dark colours were featured in the collection as was the occasional red lamé short and full-length coat.
The Seoul-based designer, MÜNN has fused tailored formalwear with streetwear in their SS20 collection that challenges traditional male archetypes. 60s styled suits have been cropped and altered, put together with shorts, tailored trousers and loose harem pants. Elements of sportswear were layered and combined, as were differing textiles, including crocheted poncho overlays. Elaborate headwear, sandals, trainers and minimal makeup finished off the looks.