London Mens SS19

By Jo Phillips

Iceberg came to London for the first time for SS18/19 catwalk shows, bringing with it primary colours into an overall dark collection. With sports luxe at the heart of this styling. As for the rest, Daniel W Fletcher started the show with a newspaper floor and ended with men in corsets. With an overall muted colour palette this collection was a stylish way to kick off the first full day of fashion week.

St James was a perfect example of British summer time. We love the bold pop of yellow as well as accessorising with hats, sunglasses and of course.. Umbrellas. Wouldn’t be British summer time without one. Matthew Miller contrasted his all-black collection with neon yellow and silver. Using trunks as accessories, showcasing womenswear alongside men in this edgy collection, whilst Oliver Spencer showcased a beautiful collection with flowers at the heart. As a beginning of the show, we saw a mini fashion film highlighting natural fields, which complimented the collection has a whole. We love the more wearable take this year and always love Oliver Spencer’s selection of models.

Sharon Wauchob spring summer collection was held within the beautiful Saint Cyprian’s Church. The collection included as much women’s as it did menswear. Introducing embroidery, fringing and sheer shirts. The MAN how was one of our highlights, showcasing 3 designers at once: Stefan Cooke, Rottingdean Bazaar and Art School.The MAN show always brings something a little bit different to the normal menswear shows, that really is a fun break from tradition and this season was no different as Rottingdean Bazaar showed a collection of hired outfits from costume stores across the uk.. a comment on our constant consumerist nature?

 Stefan Cooke

London Fashion Week Men's Autumn Winter 2018 - Fashion East MAN, Stefan Cooke

Christopher Raeburn showcase another a meaningful collection, making you think this mantra of Reduce Remade and Recycle. This year we saw paint splat garments, as well as using puffer material and quilting. Alongside clear material and using the colour red to make the collection cohesive. For spring summer 2019 Alex Mullins collaborated with Dr Martens. Brown and beige seem to be the main colour palette of this collection, using a pop of bright colours to add detail. The collection itself consisted of tropical shirts, circle bags and looks with cut-out details.

 

Kiko Kostadinov

KIM_2393

Kiko Kostadinov showcases their collection within China exchange. Making a clear focus on headpieces with coins another metallic detail in the hair complimenting the embroidered and very detailed suits within the collection. Whilst KaWaKey put on a performance in his presentation using the show space in a very imaginative way. The collection itself was very brightly coloured and the fabrics used kept the collection very on brand. The design style focused on dungarees and shirts.  Berthold used pink and black as the main colours for other collection. Showcasing shorts, headpieces and accessories. We love the mismatch of fabrics used to create the overall look, as well as the beautiful styling

Per Gotesson show with a sofa as the set design and net curtains, put on a beautiful show. Using smashed pottery and oversized denim to create unique silhouettes, another designer using pink in menswear.  Pronounce created a very colourful showcase, using multiple colours via knitwear. Using knitted flowers and accessories to drag down the catwalk. This show complimented menswear and women’s together in one.  The future in the eyes of Charles Jeffrey, alongside mad editorial styles, Charles Jeffrey Loverboy presented some beautiful tailoring and knitwear this season. Jeffrey always uses his show time to really put on a performance.

The GQ show 2 designers in 1 show: Private Policy and Staff Only. Private Policy showcased crazy hairstyles, from spikes to wet look, almost all multicoloured. Clashing athleisure wear with sequins.  And Staff Only showcased a pastel colour palette, we love the oversize collars and the fake snake accessories.  Phoebe English presented a very wearable collection this year. We love the mustard yellow pieces and the accessories for men making handbags more unisex then they ever have been before.

Blindness showcased traditional traditionally feminine styles like ruffles, lace and fishnet. Using dark and pastel colours to contrast a compliment each to create a beautiful cohesive collection.  Lou Dalton presented her perfect summer 19 collection in a very intimate way. Using hey as the set-design, countryside-style against tie-dye denim and striped shorts made for a beautiful effortless collection.  What We Wear combined as many did  sportswear and fashion in the two best ways. Taking traditional football silhouette and combine them with amazing fabrics and prints. We loved the fluffy kit.  Liam Hodges created a feast for the eyes (and a bit of humour for our bellies too) which tied in perfectly with his title for his collection ‘come and enjoy’. The collection itself took hoodies, trousers another traditional menswear pieces in an urban and artistic, each detail of the show added to the overall final look, whilst pocking a little stick at middle America

A Cold Wall showed one of the best of the shows this season.   Using show space-time put on a full performance. We loved the clear plastic material that was used for the collection. Showing off the overall design details keeping the focus on the actual design.

Finally we asked London Designers Drifters LDN to give us an insight into their design world:-

What is the starting point for you when you come to sit down and start to put any collection together?

I come up with the name of the collection first. I usually come up with the names a year before and then figure out what silhouette fits the aesthetic. I think the way I work is very backwards. I do my research, pick my colours, even design the clothes before I pick my fabrics. I always know what something should be made out of I just wait until all the research is done before I pick. The fabrics tell a story so I wait until I know what the story is before I assign them so everything can flow.
What things do you do ever season that are the same each season and are part of your ‘process’?
I get on Pinterest. It’s so easy and literally everything is on there. I’m a very visual person so seeing colours and pictures inspires me to design straight away. When I’ve got all my pictures together I make a mood and colour board and then I start designing. I stopped drawing designs years ago because of time. I just do technical drawings which I design on illustrator, make the patterns and toiles and decide if I want to change anything then.
What is the hardest off all of them?
This season by far has been the hardest! Logistically it almost drove me mad to complete it but I got there in the end! If not for it being so hard this season I would have said my AW18 collection was difficult to design as I changed the way I worked to accommodate buyers and to be able to do better commercially. Prior to AW18 I used to design whole looks. I would have a look in mind and just make it. I then decided to start designing pieces individually which was really hard for some reason but I definitely prefer it now.
Where did you start out with this collection?
In a taxi in Portugal! The driver mentioned the perfect storm and that was it. I had my brother who is an animator draw up some designs based on the perfect storm and he came up with the concept of Jupiter and it’s on going storm. He then researched the Roman Gods and made beautiful illustrations of them which I then manipulated and turned into prints, so you can thank him for the amazing t shirt and shirt prints!

 

 

 A full account of A/W shows will be in the next magazine, digital.centmagazine in August 18