Milan Fashion Week AW.15

By Jo Phillips

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To celebrate 20 years of fashion label Dsquared2, Dean and Dan Caten send down their most rock and roll collection yet, encapsulating everything Dsquared2 stands for. Leather jackets, and dirty denim jeans, white parka fur trimmed jackets and studded leather trousers where key looks in the collection, followed by refined tailored tuxes, showcasing Dsquared2’s alternative design aesthetic that they execute oh so well.

Ermenegildo Zegna

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Providing a strong outdoorsy feel for AW.15, Ermengildo Zegna’s creative director Stefano Pilati created a stylish yet functional collection for the adventurous and nature loving man. With a luxe colour palette of army green, navy, camel, maroon, with velvet, tweed, and corduroy as key materials, Zegna’s collection was succinct, stylish and a perfect mesh of style and function.

Costume National Homme

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The rock and roll theme continued at Costume National Homme, with tailored silhouettes in the form camel jackets, shaggy fur coats, and cropped bejewelled blazers, all accessories with skinny fitted trousers from pinstriped to red leather. The minimal and slim fitted collection was brought alive by its vivacious colour palette of deep jewel tones, camel and black and bicolored style.

John Varvatos

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John Varvatos autumnal collection was everything you think of when it comes to the fall season. A muted colour palette and runway covered in brown leaves aided in the overall vision, as well as a collection filled with drainpipe trousers, lean topcoats and belted car coats in muddy browns, camel and black. The dusty colour palette also included hints of dark plum and olive, in the form of biker jackets, parkas, and pea coats.

Versace

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Donatella declared the collection ‘Versace Stripped.’ “No decoration, no color, no print. Just the soul of Versace: silhouette and cut.” That is exactly what Versace presented, creating a surprising collection with an air of minimalism and restraint to the garments. While the style was simple, the luxe materials remained, with mink, cashmere, leather and indulgent knits filling the collection. Standout looks included the long and lean cashmere coats, ribbed blouses with fur collars, and the overall refreshing feel of the modernised and simplified Versace man.

Jil Sander

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For Rodolfo Paglialunga debut for Jil Sander, he familiarised himself with the classic history of Jil Sander for AW.15, with a range of oversized trousers and polo sweaters in offbeat colours, giving off a heavy seventies vibe. Standouts included double face cashmere coats, belted macs, and elements of workwear in the form of utility pockets and drawstring waists on select outwear pieces. After a long career in womenswear, Paglialunga is off to a good start in menswear, using the very aesthetic of Jil Sander and making magical tweaks to classic looks.

Phillip Plein

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Phillip Plein delivered an extravaganza and performance for AW.15. From the boxing ring setting, to an opening performance from hip hop legend Snoop Dogg, the atmosphere was a buzz with what to expect from the German designer. What was presented matched perfectly with its setting, with an air of exoticism and luxury throughout the collection, with Plein’s use of materials like lizard, leather, fur and shearling in his urban infused collection. Hockey shirts, and trucker pants, bomber jackets, hoodies and extravagant headwear stood out in the collection, and it’s over the top theme remains consistent in Plein’s work.

Bottega Veneta

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Bottega Veneta had a laid back approach this season, with fleece tracksuits, checkered suits, broad shouldered jackets in herringbone, and a fun colour palette of  purple, orange, pink and more.

Salvatore Ferragamo

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Woodlands, wild life and fresh air are thoughts that come to mind when pursuing through Salvatore Ferragamo’s autumn/winter 2015 collection. Short wool coats with bird motifs, lumberjack coats and ribbed duffle jumpers can be seen throughout the collection, admits a shadowy backdrop and runway paved with fresh dirt. The naturist feel continued into their large snoods, shearling jackets and leather jackets, adding a stylish flair and mixing of style with substance.

Calvin Klein

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Different shades of grey was the theme this season for Calvin Klein. Grey hues of granite, charcoal, basalt and more, embossed with leopard and cheetah patterns, grey spots dotted on overcoats, blazers, parkas and lean trousers. The collection had a very masculine feel overall, and the quirky additions to the classically minimalist collection, added excitement to all that grey. Key pieces included cropped flight jackets with high waisted trousers, elements of tweed, and shiny black vinyl coats.

Vivienne Westwood

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Vivienne Westwood presented a collection which broke down gender boundaries, and presented a solid collection of unisex looks. To demonstrate, women in tailored suits walked down the runway, while men wore knits infused with feminine qualities. This included lightweight draping on jumpers and cardigans, and floral jacquard jackets. Amongst this was Westwood’s signature classics, including drop crotch trousers in classic British fabrics, and army green pea coats and ponchos, adding in the classic britannia feel we’ve come to love from Westwood so much.

Missoni

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Missoni’s autumn/winter 2015 collection was inspired by the tribal wardrobe of the Far East, and elements of the modern cosmopolitan man. Standout pieces included large fringe cashmere scarves, plaid shawls, textured trench coats and a variety of lightweight jackets, and mohair cardigans.

Prada

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Gender was a poignant theme in Prada’s autumn/winter 2015 collection, showcasing looks for both him and her. Black nylon in lightweight coats and boxy shirts, and minimal black dresses completed this uniform aesthetic that Prada went for this season.

Moncler Gamme Bleu

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Based in an industrial warehouse in downtown Milan, Moncler Gamme Bleu presented an army of models storming the space, arranged according to colour. Each group of models appeared in padded jackets, white cropped jackets, ski goggles and ski caps, and unleashed  fur, tweed, nylon and leather in graphic contrasting colours; graphic monochrome zig-zags over boxy jackets, and exaggerated harlequin prints in red and blue. Browne’s fresh eye and sporty aesthetic continues to forge a bright and futuristic look into the Gamme Bleu man.

Diesel Black and Gold

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Studs, safety pins, zippers and chains – this was the overall theme for Diesel Black Gold’s autumn/winter 2015 collection, with a strong punk rock aesthetic applied to their collegiate blazers, overcoats and uniform jackets. Distressed denim, skinny cargo pants accompanied the rocker feel.

Emporio Armani

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Emporio Armani aims to redefine the youth of day, creating a collection which is youthful but smart and sharp. Jackets with small lapels steered the collection, alongside unstructured jersey, ribbed cardigan jackets, long john trousers and a palette of blues, blacks, caramels and greys.

Gucci

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With Frida Gianni no longer at the helm of Gucci, their menswear autumn/winter 2015 show was very much anticipated. This season, the Gucci team presented a younger, quirkier collection, filled with silk chiffon blouses, shrunken military jackets, lace t-shirts and pyjama like pants. The gender theme was present again this season, bending the worlds of masculinity and femininity to create a cohesive and forward thinking collection for the Gucci man.

Etro

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Etro tapped Como based artists to embellish his designs with paisley and flower patterns for the latest collection, appearing on a variety of velvet suits, corduroy coats, and suede jackets. The pattern danced beautiful on murky brown and green blouses, chalky long coats, accessorised with patterned scarves in a variety of patchwork styles.

Fendi

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Fendi’s quintessential autumn/winter 2015 collection was everything luxurious about the brand. Classy suits, velvet pants, elegant shoes worn with colourful socks, short fur coats and trenches. Many looks were accessorised with large scarfs in vivid colours of stripes and furs, and modelled additionally with great leather handbags and backpacks which Silvia Fendi does so well.

Giorgio Armani

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Softly constructed jackets dominated the runway at Giorgio Armani’s laid back autumn/winter 2015 collection.  Slim, double-breasted jackets made of cashmere jersey, knits and coats were prominent throughout the collection and an air of luxury and sophistication that we expect from Mr. Armani was a key factor for this winter season.

Roberto Cavalli

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Black slim leather pants,furs ,artistic abstract prints on coats where all the rage at Roberto Cavalli, alongside romantic shirts,ripped jeans, and luxurious silk evening coats and suits. This mesh of dany rock musician meets the modern urban man was key throughout the collection, giving it a contextual and modern undercurrent for Cavalli’s autumn/winter 2015 menswear show.