Nose; a term used to describe a perfume artist, someone who is capable of portraying moods, emotions, and concepts through fragrance composition. They must have the ability to smell something that doesn’t exist, something only imaginable. They must imagine a shimming shining adorable scent before they start to even build it. A Nose is trained over many years to develop the knowledge of a large variety of fragrance ingredients, as well as understand how the ingredients change over time and how ingredients may be altered when combined into a perfume. Enjoy reading Perfume Booked here.
Born into the world of perfume (his grandfather was the founder of Parfums Christian Dior), Frédéric Malle’s deep knowledge of scents and his radical vision of perfumes led him, in 2000, to establish Éditions de Parfums Frédéric Malle, a house for perfumers where fragrances are conceived as haute couture creations.
At a time when the self-service sale of perfumes (buying them in big stores and chemists) was on the rise, Malle chose to open a boutique that would provide a luxurious setting for the perfumes he “published” collaborating with the world’s greatest perfumers. Malle’s determination has been to champion the art of perfumery itself, granting perfumers total and complete freedom to create, as well as furnishing them with exceptional raw materials and releasing all boundaries and constraints, restoring the art of perfume making to its former glory.
Frédéric Malle and his perfumer creators want the same things: creative freedom, access to the highest quality raw materials, and time. Together they collaborate as authors would with an editor, constantly revisiting compositions to the point of perfection, and always striving to create the modern classics of tomorrow.
Here are some of the famous perfumer noses Malle worked with.
He is a daring perfectionist, a true inventor his perfumes are like great architectural feats. Dominique often balances excessive doses of powerful ingredients with meticulously-measured, subtler accords, until the composition holds up on its own. Some of his famous creations include; Promise, Portrait of a Lady and Superstitious.
Jean– Claude Ellena.
He says that a perfume must be like “a soft caress; nothing must shock, nothing must shout. However, his compositions remain focused around a single ingredient, avoiding repetition. Some of his famous creations include; Rose & Cuir, Bigarade Concentrate, and L’eau D’hiver.
He joined Chanel’s laboratory as a chemist in 1973, and since then has been a self-taught perfumer. Although his legendary olfactory style is now characterized for the most part by opulent sensuality sprung from his preference for musk, white flowers and amber. Some of his famous creations include; Dans tes bras,and Musc Ravaguer.
He is considered to be America’s greatest living perfumer. As the author of the legendary perfume Polo Ralph Lauren and of many other beloved classics, he owes his success to a great intellectual curiosity that has always pushed him to embrace a world beyond the boundaries of perfume making. Some of his famous creations include; Eau de Magnolia.
He is remembered today as one of the most important perfumers in history: as a “perfumer composer” and the inventor of modern perfumery. His famous encounter in the 1950s was with Serge Heftler-Louiche, the founder of Parfums Christian Dior and Frédéric Malle’s grandfather,; it was decisive. Together they created many legendary perfumes: Diorella, Eau Fraîche, Diorissimo. His famous creation is Le Parfum de Therese.
To mark the twentieth anniversary of Frédéric Malle’s quest for beauty and creative freedom, Rizzoli published Éditions de Parfums Frédéric Malle: The First Twenty Years. A necessary addition to the libraries of industry masters, this volume is an exploration of the inspirations and vision of one of the great protagonists of contemporary perfume. 2020 marks a historic date for the house: twenty years of audacity and creativity. Twenty years of shifting paradigms in the exacting world of perfumery.
Malle offers readers an intimate glimpse into his brand’s saga and shares the stories behind four of his most successful scents in graphic-novel form. Journalist Marion Vignal delves into Malle’s lifelong devotion to perfume, personal history, and myriad inspirations to uncover the evolution of his precise olfactory aesthetics, while imagery of perfume bottles, sketches, advertising campaigns, and photos of boutiques explores his comprehensive vision.
There is now a wonderful new opportunity to have a virtual appointment with the Fredric Malle team. Whether it’s choosing the perfume that will become your signature or the scent that will become your interior’s olfactory soul.
If you loved reading Perfume Publisher then read Travel with Art here.