London Fashion Week Men’s kicked off the Autumn Winter season shows. The season was only two and a half days, throughout the shows we seem to notice a few trends, themes and overall presentational aspect of the season that really stood out to us.
It was really a season about moments. Barbour and Christopher Raeburn both celebrated a big anniversary this season, as well as designers taking the venue change to there advance and taking us to new and amazing locations within the heart of London, as well as the use of set design to compliment the collections overall outcome.
Trends. A few trends and elements of the Autumn Winter 19 menswear shows that seem to be key are:
Longline trend coats, blazers and cropped length trousers are all tailored elements that were found on the catwalks this season, but all in a colour palette of neutrals tones. Whether that be beige, brown, or tan these tones are going to be seen in many garments and design element for the up and coming season.
Another element of design that we continued to notice was fabric. Many fabrics on the catwalks seemed to feel heavy and reflective, some with a metallic sheen and other in vinyl fabrics. This was presented as the main fabrics as seen by Studio Alch and Feng Chen Wang (top right and bottom left) or as accessory elements as showcased by Stefan Cooke from Fashion East.
A huge trend that was seen on more than another other catwalk was neon. Huge splashes of colour are refreshing to see on the catwalks of men’s fashion week, and to see them in neon hues is something we didn’t expect.
The colour can be seen on the catwalk in waves, as the main colour element of the design as seen by Craig Green (bottom middle) or a tailoring / design details showcased by Pronounce (bottom left) or as accessory and beauty details as seen by Chalayan and Mowalola (top right and bottom right).
Vests, corsets, layered design details and sleeveless garments have been slowly making there return for a few seasons now, but the autumn-winter season is clearly the height of this trend.
The season saw many men with corsets or belts layered over coats or blazers, but more design elements of this trend came to light at the men’s shows. From mini jackets layered over larger ones, to using a vest / sleeveless shirt as the key element of an outfit. Layering is the overall outcome and whatever form it comes in you can expect to see more in the future.
Graphic prints, colour and illustration are all modern design features that are becoming more common on the menswear catwalks. These design details come in a wide variety, where it’s using the cartoon/ animation to make a pattern on fabrics like Bobby Abley did for his AW19 collection (right) but also using the characters themselves to inspire elements of design, like flames. Or just using the cartoon as the main element of the garment as seen by Iceberg (left).
Alongside these trends, there were many other moments and elements of the menswear season that we wanted to celebrate that may otherwise be overlooked.
Model inclusivity. This is something that London designers do well, creating an ageless atmosphere for fashion week. The model range is always wide and model inclusivity is something to be celebrated.
Lou Dalton presentation, image from Cent Team.
Congratulations to Barbour and Christopher Raeburn for both celebrating huge milestones at this menswear season. Barbour celebrated 125 years at there presentation for the AW19 season. And Christopher Raeburn celebrated 10 years with his catwalk show for the AW19 season also.
The collections are foremost what we are at fashion week, as well as trends and moments we wanted to celebrate designer that use not only there collection to showcase there story but also the location and what they do with that space to enhance and compliment the overall vision for the autumn-winter season.
For the AW19 season many designers showcased their collections in different ways, but where it was a catwalk show or a fashion presentation, these designer compliment their collections with set design pieces.
Daniel W Flecter, Wood Wood, Delada, Per Götesson, Jordan Luca, Private Policy via GQ China, Liam Hodges. Set-design pieces of imagery taken by the Cent team.
Set-design ft water
Another element/moment that may have been overlooked was the use of water within the shows. Danshan (top right and bottom right) used a circle of water as the stage for their AW19 fashion presentation. While A-COLD-WALL* placed a pool of water next to the catwalk, as the show went on performance artist danced their way to the end of the catwalk within this pool of water.
Set design with mannequins
Within fashion week, presentations are a more personal way to get to see the collections. You really get the opportunity o get up close to the garments are see the details and design elements that have gone into the overall construction. As a result of this more and more designers seem to be ditching models and replacing them with mannequins.
Michiko Koshino, Bianca Saunder and Belstaff mannequins photographed by the Cent team.
As previously mentions the home of fashion week has changed. The British Fashion Council hub of AW19 buzz has moved from The Strand to the Truman Brewery. A refreshing start to a new year, this season many designs took an opportunity to explore a different area of London and exploring the places and locations around this new area, as well as using these locations to enhance and develop the overall outcome for the collection.
Astrid Anderso, Xander Zhou, John Lawrence Sullivan and Band of Outsider location imagery by the Cent team.
Astrid Anderson too us to an outside location, leaving us wanting one of the coats she showcased for her AW19 collection. Velsvoir complimented the sharpe elements of the AW19 collection but complimenting it was a share skyline view. Xander Zhou took us to a part of London that was left looking surreal, this added to the overall otherworldly atmosphere of his AW19 collection. John Lawerence Sullivan took us to an underground location where a live band played while models walked down the catwalk to the music. And a Band Of Outsiders took us to a mini theatre which was perfect as not only did the display the AW19 collection but also a fashion film to go alongside.
Another detail and moment of fashion week that we always appreciate is the complimentary drinks giving within the BFC show space and at fashion presentations. So thank you to Savile Row Gin, Ciroc and Warsteiner beer for supporting the fashion season.