Here, dear fashion friends, are the last reviews of the Men’s Fashion Week SS15 from Paris. Thank you to the LCF students for sharing your opinion and inspiration.
LUKE BULLEN – Walter Van Beirendonck
This collection stood out because it was fun vibrant and on top of that, very beautiful. The whole collection was a literal collage of beautiful patterns, fun prints, bold colours and contrasting fabrics from mesh and fringe – seamlessly growing out of nicely tailored suits. The collection is influential to me as designer because it is a perfect example of everything just fitting together; it is fun, interesting to look at and immediately catches one’s eye. You can easily see this collection being designed as a 2D collage with the different patterns, colours, textures and shapes – it completely works in 3D. This collection also seems to have some Asian influences with the chosen silhouettes and the Karate belts, I like how unexpected and successful all these different elements are thrown together without looking forced or clichéd.
MARCO STORM BRASKOV – Yohji Yamamoto
Yohji Yamamoto’s SS15 collection reflects his masterful approach to deconstruction, tailoring, textures and prints. I admire how he tells a story through his show and creates interesting characters. In the show you were met with a romantic version of a hobo, an outlaw and an artistic spirit. I have always been very inspired by his silhouettes and his way of layering the garments to complement and enhance the look. It gives a ragged but floating and effortless expression. His collection had an interesting mix of styles, which went from fitted pinstripe suits with contrasting patchwork to deconstructed baroque jackets – printed with faded glass rosettes. Towards the end of the show he introduced my favourite looks, they were in full denim, with a clear Americana vibe combined with Japanese workwear. The denim pieces became hybrids between shirts and kimonos mixed with ponchos and cropped fishermen pants. I think it is inspirational how he draws you into his quirky universe and imagination.
LAURA NEEDLE – Acne
Confident colour with a mix of juxtaposed fabrics form this relaxed collection from Acne Menswear S/S 15. Casual elements run throughout the collection with tied shirts around the waist and a balance of oversized garments meeting either slim fit shorts or trouser. The clean boxy and minimal shapes are formed through the luxurious fabrics that are then paired with a casual everyday chunky knit or jersey and then styled with a trainer or beanie hat. Although this collection creates a casual vibe, all garments have a desirable tailored and clean finish. Varied finishes feature throughout my own graduate collection, whether it is a classical and refined or a raw yet considered edge. The causal mix in my collection of slip dresses, oversized pyjama trousers with a more tailored outwear garment reminded me of Acne’s approach to SS/ 15.
NICOLE PASKAUSKAS – Kenzo
The Kenzo collection is my favourite show from Paris, their consistently strong and bold use of shapes and prints and selective use of colour are influential to me as a designer as they always reinvent their image with each collection but always also manage to follow their consistent ‘Kenzo style’ as a recognisable brand.
CHARLOTTE KNOWLES – Anne Demeulemeester
Sébastien Meunier, staying true to the Demeulemeester aesthetic, demonstrated a monochrome-esque, polished collection. Layers of crisp, lightly frayed cotton edges; raw and unlined, created a beautiful, unfussy delicacy. The silhouettes were loose and lean; cropped, rumpled trousers with long variations of tops and outerwear. His subtle incorporation of embellishment amongst the nonchalant, simplistic aesthetic illustrated a sensitivity and ability to stay loyal to the brands aesthetic, whilst adding his own injection of style. Use and exploration of texture is what inspires me; I admire his sensitivity and subtle application throughout the collection. I also applaud his clever use (or lack) of colour. Despite the absence, his choice and application are very effective and highlighted by the majoritively monochrome ‘palette’.